480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p what does it all mean?
Standard TV from the days of black and white to the present color images we watch every day on television are made up of a series of still images displayed at 60 frames a second in the US and 50 frames a second in Europe. These still images consist of individual lines of information that move from left to right across the screen followed by more lines moving down the screen. With a Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) that most older TVs’ use for the display, the flat surface that you look at is coated on the inside with phosphor dots or rectangles. A beam of electrons is aimed at the dots or rectangles causing them to glow. With a standard definition TV there are 480 of these lines and 640 sets of dots or rectangles on each line. Each set of dots or rectangles consist of three color dots (Red Blue and Green) and the power or intensity of the electron beam determines how bright each color will be. There are actually three beams moving together across the face of the screen, each changing in intensity as they cross the phosphor dots or rectangles.
Interlaced (i) or Progressive (p)?
In order to reduce the bandwidth, normal TV signals only send 30/25 frames a second to the receiver made up of only 240 lines of information. If that were all we saw on the screen it would look like the old flickering movies. Within the TV set the signal is processed and sent twice to the CRT, the odd numbered lines are scanned and then the even numbered lines are scanned with the same image. This is referred to as an interlaced image and eliminates the flicker. However the true vertical resolution is only 240.
With a progressive image, 60/50 frames a second are sent to the receiver and all of the lines are scanned once for each frame and providing twice the detail as the interlaced image with the same screen. However this requires twice the bandwidth. Keep in mind that non-digital over the air is only 240 lines of original information, you can use a line doubler or scaler to increase the number of lines, but it will never be as sharp as the original image.
Horizontal resolution is much simpler, it is basically just the number of dots, rectangles or pixels across the width of your screen. For example standard definition TV is 640 X 480, the horizontal resolution is 640 for both interlaced and progressive.
Standard Definition DVD Full Screen and Wide screen
With the introduction of DVDs’ the horizontal resolution was increased from 640 to 720 to show the wider images of the original movies. Displays with a resolution of “720 X 480 ” could show these movies using the full screen width, however when viewing standard TV images, the people are slightly fatter.
Enhanced Definition TV
This format uses progressive scan and an even wider image for “854 X 480″ and though is much better than standard TV it still does not come close to High Definition TV. Standard TV usually have a black bar on each side as the people would look weird being so fat.
720p High Definition TV
This format was a big step forward, however when viewing regular TV, you were still stuck back in the old format of “640 X 480″. 720P displays have a resolution of “1280 x 720″ and use progressive scan for a very sharp image. Scalers and converters are used to boost the quality of the TV images to match the screen. For Analog signals, Component video equipment and cables are a minimum requirement. Video and S-Video will not work. The TV set may accept Video and S-Video, but will not take advantage of the full resolution, displaying a smaller image or through processing in the TV provide a larger image though not as sharp.
The Government steps in with 720p and 1080i high Definition TV Standards
On February 17, 2009, television stations will stop all analog broadcasts and only broadcast digitally. Older analog TVs will require converter boxes to receive over the air programming. Cable or satellite service will not be affected. There are two formats that will be used by the different stations.
The 720p format makes a picture with 720 vertical lines, each with 1280 pixels horizontally or a resolution of “1280 x 720″. 720p uses progressive scanning, like computers, which sends a complete picture 60 times per second. 720p provides the smoothest possible motion rendition, but it does not have as much resolution as 1080i.
The 1080i format makes a picture with 1080 vertical lines, each with 1920 pixels horizontally or a resolution of “1920 x 1080″. 1080i uses interlaced scanning, like traditional TV, which alternates sending odd lines and even lines and thus sends a complete picture 30 times per second. 1080i provides the highest possible resolution, but has the same motion rendition as traditional TV.
1080p High Definition DVD
Your next DVD player will most likely be able to play 50 Gbyte DVD’s that will use an High Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI) that will also supply up to 7 channels of high definition audio along with the 1080p image. This is quickly becoming the standard for DVD movies in the same way that DVD replaced VCR tapes a few years ago.
To view these movies you will need an HDTV display with HDMI inputs and a DVD player capable of playing the new format with HDMI output. You will also need special HDMI cables to connect the two. Your cable or satellite provider will also use HDMI connections so you will need at least two HDMI connectors on your display device.
There are some drawbacks to the current models of High Definition DVD players. High- bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP), creates a slow down when starting a movie, you may think that you have a problem with your DVD. The player is just talking to the display device to make sure that they are both licenced properly. Unless you are viewing the DVD on a 42 inch or larger screen you will have a hard time telling the difference between 720p and 1080p.
Broadband what does it mean?
You may be using broadband now and not even realize it. How often do you select an online movie from your local cable or dish company? Have you noticed how many high definition features are now being offered? As the selections become larger, watching streaming content will become so common that we will slowly forget about our DVD players. 720p is very common and soon 1080p will also be available. The protection for the movie producers is already there as the high definition boxes use HDMI with HDCP for the high definition outputs.
Organic Light Emitting Diode (OLED) TV’s
Then comes the OLED’s, we are already using them on the new cell phones and laptops. The first OLED television was introduced in 2008. As demand for larger displays increases and the pipeline that is now full of plasma and LCD screen began to empty we will hear more and more about the color quality of the OLED’s. For a few years the resolution of the displays will remain about the same and the sales pitch will be all about the colors. But keep in mind that there is no limit the size of the screen with OLED and it is also flexible. The flexibly will allow for easer handling and installation.
As the size of the screen increases a demand for greater resolution will start all over again. And with the flexibly comes the possibility of 360 degree wrap-a-round screens. Remember that the horizontal resolution is much easer obtain than the vertical so a resolution of 16000(or greater) X 1080p is not out of the question. 360 degree movies are not new, Disney World has had one in operation in Orlando for years. You stand in the center in a large group and turn around to follow the action. A few spinning recliners and the screen raised a few feet and away you go.
Intermediaries Tranair
February 20, 2012
The spoken sounds of the letters S and Z can be confusing for non-native English speakers. Here are some techniques for pronouncing these sounds correctly.
1. First you must understand the tongue position for the /s/ & /z/ sounds.
The /s/ and the /z/ are made with the same tongue position. The tip of the tongue is behind your upper gum ridge. The tongue is pointed and slightly curved up.
2. Then you must understand the difference between voiceless and voiced sounds.
The /s/ is a voiceless sound. Your vocal chords are relaxed when you make the /s/ sound. The /z/ is a voiced sound. Your vocal chords vibrate when you make the /z/ sound.
3. You must also be familiar with all the different spellings for the letters S and Z. Notice that the S often has the /z/ sound and the C often has the /s/ sound.
Here are some common spellings for the /s/ sound.
s: some, yes, must
ss: class, discuss
c: city, nice, place
sc: science, scenery
Here are some common spellings for the /z/ sound.
z: size, prize, quiz
zz: dizzy, blizzard
s: busy, because, visit
se: these, cause, lose
s: plays, does, girl’s
Practice Phrases
Here are some phrases you can use to practice pronouncing the American English /z/ and /s/ sounds.
In these phrases the S in each word has a /z/ sound. When you pronounce the S make sure you create a vibration in your vocal chords.
1. goes away
2. closes at 10:00
3. noisy visitors
4. doesn’t work
5. easy does it
6. use these
7. always late
8. rock music
In these phrases the S or the C in each word has the /s/ sound. Your vocal chords should not vibrate when you pronounce the /s/ in these phrases.
1. six socks
2. this summer
3. stop sign
4. good price
5. my place
6. recent event
7. nice city
8. eats rice
Understanding what sounds are voiced and what sounds are voiceless will help you improve your American English pronunciation and reduce your accent.
3D Capture
February 19, 2012
I bought my Panasonic NV-GS11 video camera from eBay and for the cost, it seemed perfect. I liked the feel of the camera, it’s simplicity of use, until I tried to transfer my movie to a PC and that’s when the trouble started!
Normally, when you connect a camera using the USB connection, your PC recognises the device and you can use it straight away. I had no end of problems getting the PC to do this and I thought the driver was at fault.
The answer, in hindsight, is that in the menu there are 2 items for the USB Function, “web camera” and “DV Studio” – the software for acquiring still photos from the camera. Choose “web camera”, connect your camera to the PC via the USB connection and switch on the camera using the Playback mode. Check “My Computer” and there should be a video camera icon with “USB Video Device” beside it. Double click onto this icon will open up a page, where if you start your movie from the camera, you can see the results on the PC screen. Unfortunately, there’s nowhere on this page where you can save the movie itself.
I searched with Google and found the answer. Many people had the same issue but there didn’t seem to any answers. Eventually, I found one reply on a forum way down the page which provided the solution.
Download Windows Movie Maker from the Microsoft page. This is for Windows XP:-
http://www.download.com/Windows-Movie-Maker-Windows-XP-/3000-13631_4-10165075.html
Open Movie Maker and you will see ” Capture from video device” This allows you to save your movie into a directory of your choice and later burn the movie onto a CD using your favourite software.
I hope this is of some help to you all with the same problem I had. If you need any further assistance, drop me an email to brianparkin@parkinspatch.com
Glossy Photo Paper Bill Organizer
February 18, 2012
So you have been thinking about the purchase of an LCD Flat Screen Tv.
In days past the choices on where to purchase highly regarded home theater equipment was pretty limited. If you were lucky enough to live near a big city you had several specialty electronics stores to choose from. If you lived in suburban America you had one or two big name electronics stores, while if you lived in rural America you were sometimes out of luck until you made an excursion out to the “big city”.
Today, that has all changed with the arrival of the Internet. Anyone with access to the Internet now has access to a gigantic specialty electronics store right in their own home. Practically any LCD flat screen tv known to mankind can be purchase online with the click of a few buttons.
While the choices are limitless, it is more important then ever to do your research and become a smart consumer. The following 7 things will help you be an educated consumer and help you get the best bang for your hard earned buck.
1. What size tv do you need? – Know the size of your room and how much space you have available, but also know what is the best size for optimum viewing. If you sit to close you take the risk of noticing scan lines or pixels, but sit too far away and you begin to lose out on picture details and the immersive feel of a wide screen tv. It is recommended that you can sit anywhere between 1.5 and 3 times your HDTV screen size for the best viewing experience. So for a viewing distance of 8 feet (96inches) you would want an LCD that is at least 32 inches, but not more then 63inches. If your viewing distance was 12 feet (144 inches) you would want a screen size with a minimum of 46 inches and a maximum of 96 inches for the best viewing experience.
2. Know what features are important – Most people are going to want a 1080p tv, but what about contrast ratio, response times and refresh rates. Do you watch sports or movies with a lot of fast action? If you do then you will want something with low response times and may want to consider a 120Hz LCD for smooth motion. Is the look of the tv important. Some manufacturers have begun releasing LCDs with stylish bezels where the tv looks great when turned off as well as on. Some people will say that one of the disadvantages of shopping online is that you don’t have the benefit of a helpful salesperson to guide you through the buying process. While that may be true of a specialty home theater store I would argue that you can get much more helpful information by doing a little research yourself online then you can from listening to some of the downright bad advice that is shared in some of the big electronic chain stores.
3. Price – Lets face it, the biggest advantage of buying online by far is the price. The local brick and mortar stores with there overhead costs simply can’t match some of the prices that can be found online for the same exact LCD flat screen tv. But prices can also vary greatly from one online retailer to another. When you compare price make sure to take all things into consideration such as shipping fees and taxes when determining the actual cost of the LCD. The price savings can be significant, particularly on the mid to high end displays. At the same time, you can’t simply rely on price alone when buying an LCD online which brings us to the next consideration.
4. Company reputation – Make sure the retailer is reliable. What good is it to save a bundle of money on a new tv only to find out that the retailer is shipping faulty products. Is there a company phone number to contact with questions? Is the site professional? Are all transactions placed on a secure connection? Have you heard of the retailer before? Check out customer rankings and reviews online. A good, reliable site will allow customers to place reviews of the product, but also of the service that they received from the retailer.
5. Return policy - Another extremely important consideration for buying an LCD tv online is what is the return policy? If the tv is damaged will they return it, no questions asked? If so, who is responsible for the shipping fee? Will they pay shipping or are you responsible for shipping? What if you want to exchange the tv? One of the things about going into a store is that you can actually take a look at the tv. What if you order the LCD, get it sent home and then realize it is not what you were expecting? Can you exchange the tv and if so what is the restocking fee if any? An upfront knowledge of the return policy is essential when purchasing an LCD online. The good online retailers will have a return fee that is as good or better then many of the brick and mortar stores.
6. Shipping – It is important to understand several things about shipping. What are the shipping costs? Will the product get damaged in shipping and if so who is responsible. Some people feel that there is a much greater chance of receiving a damaged product when buying online and having it shipped, however many times there is less handling of a tv from a large online retailer who ships the tv from their warehouse then there is in some of the local stores where tvs are shipped from one warehouse to another until it eventually enters the stores warehouse and then delivered to your home. Is white glove delivery available to bring the LCD directly into your home? Can you have someone setup the tv for you and if so what is the cost.
7. What about cables, accessories and extended warranties? – Cables, accessories and extended warranties have long been a major profit center for the brick and mortar stores. Do you ever notice how the sales personnel seem to save there most passionate sales pitches for the extended warranties? Many times that is when they have the opportunity to earn a larger commission based on the warranty sales. Today’s flat panel LCD tvs are much more reliable then in years past and it is generally not worth the extra cost of an extended warranty. Not to mention cables. Stores often push the sales of overpriced cables saying that you need them in order to get a quality video and audio experience. These cables are one of the areas where a store can make a lot of money. The truth is that there is very little difference between cables, particularly the digital cable such as HDMI. Local stores won’t carry the discount cables, so ordering cables online is a perfect way to save a great deal of money.
Buying an LCD flat screen tv online is a great way to get a high quality tv and save a lot of money at the same time. With a little bit of online research you can buy that perfect tv from a reliable retailer and have it conveniently shipped home where you and your family will be able to enjoy the latest movie release or sports event on your new big screen tv.
Saffron Bird Cage Lodging Beach
February 16, 2012
Even if you haven’t played guitar tablature before you can impress or maybe shock your friends by playing Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star. Let’s start playing guitar tab!
We will use guitar tabs so you will not need to read traditional sheet music. You will only use the thinnest strings on the guitar which also will make this song a little bit easier to play.
The string with the highest pitch is called the first string or E-string. Look at the following guitar tab staff:
1. —————-
2. —————-
3. —————-
In this guitar tab staff we have three lines representing the three first strings on your guitar. The top line represents the E-string on your guitar. That is the thinnest string or the string with the highest pitch.
When you look at a guitar tablature staff you will find numbers on it that tells you which frets to press down. Here is an example:
1. ————
2. ——–3—
3. —-0——-
The number zero on the third line tells you to play the third string without pressing down a left hand finger. This note is a G. In other words, the number O represents an open string. The number 3 on the second string indicates that you shall press down the third fret on the second string and play the note. This note is a D.
Here are the first line of Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star with lyrics and corresponding guitar tab:
Twinkle, twinkle, little star
1. ——————-0—0——-
2. ———–3—3———–3—
3. —0—0———————–
What to do with your left hand? I mean, which fingers should you use to press down the frets?
I admit that this is a little bit tricky at first but I suggest that you use your index finger for the notes on the first fret, the middle finger for the notes on the second fret and your ring finger for the third fret.
Time for the next tablature staff:
How I wonder where you are
1. ——————————-
2. —1—1—0—0—————
3. ——————-2—2—0—
Maybe you feel that it is difficult to use your left hand fingers the way I described. The only thing I can say is, be patient! Very soon you will reap the benefits from using these fingers when playing guitar.
1. You will be able to keep your hand from moving as you use three fingers instead of one finger for the three frets which will make it easier to play more advanced melodies on your guitar.
2. You will not have to look on the fretboard as much as your fingers have their fixed frets to work with and they will help you find your way around the fretboard.
Next guitar tab:
Up above the world so high
1. ——————————-
2. —3—3—1—1—0—0——-
3. —————————2—
You can’t see the length of the notes in these guitar tabs. Actually it is possible to notate even the length of notes but I guess you already know this melody well and will be able to find out how to play the rhythm of the song by ear.
Let’s continue with the guitar tabs:
Like a diamond in the sky
1. ——————————-
2. —3—3—1—1—0—0——-
3. —————————2—
Now when you understand guitar tab notation you can find many songs written this way on the internet. A complete guitar tablature staff has six lines representing the six strings.
Here is the last guitar tabs to learn. Actually you know this melody part already:
Twinkle, twinkle, little star
1. ——————-0—0——-
2. ———–3—3———–3—
3. —0—0———————–
How I wonder where you are
1. ——————————-
2. —1—1—0—0—————
3. ——————-2—2—0—
Now you have completed the song! But you still have to learn it by heart to be able to play it to your friends! One line at a time until you know the whole song!
Cheap Package Dried Fruits Quantity Surveying
February 11, 2012
Even though the drummer plays the entire kit as a single instrument, the miking of individual drums and cymbals can make for a very complicated mix scenario. The reason I reference country and rock music specifically has to do with the fact that in these genres the sounds of the individual drums and cymbals are not only singled out by individual microphones placed on each of them but also their sounds are exaggerated to create an even more dramatic effect.
Consider, for example, the tom fills in Phil Collins’ “In The Air Tonight.” By contrast, jazz drums are often treated as a more cohesive, unified sound and it’s not unusual to use a simple pair of overhead mics to capture the sound of the entire jazz drum kit.
In this article, I’m going to go drum by drum providing EQ and compression settings that will, hopefully, provide you with a jumping off point to getting great drum sounds in your mix. Because of its all-in-one mixing board channel approach, I’ll be using Metric Halo’s Channel Strip plug-in with its EQ, compression and noise-gate to illustrate my comments about various EQ and compression settings.
Kick Drum
As the heartbeat of the contemporary drum kit, the kick drum sound we’ve grown accustomed to hearing is both boomy and round on the bottom and has a nice, bright click in the high mid range. It’s the balancing act between EQ and compression that gives the kick drum its ability to stand out in a mix. Beginning with EQ, the best way to accentuate the lows and highs is to remove some low-mids. I’m a big believer in cutting as opposed to boosting EQ to achieve a desired effect. As a result, I tend to pull somewhere between 2 to 4db at between 350hz-450hz. Then, after removing some of this low-mid mud from the sound, I can enhance the clicking sound of the beater hitting the head of the kick drum by boosting around 2db in the 2k-3k range. I’m providing approximate dB and frequency range settings because depending on the kick drum, mic placement and, of course the drummer, all of these settings will vary. Use these general ranges as a jumping off point and then trust your ears.
As far as compression settings go, the trick is to preserve the transient attack of the kick drum with a fast but not too fast attack time (9ms in this instance) and then a quick release (11ms) so the compressor is ready to respond to the next kick drum hit. The ratio I use is a relatively mild 2.5:1 and I adjust the threshold until I hear the kick sound I’m searching for. Finally, in order to give the kick drum sound some separation from the rest of the kit, I use a noise gate and adjust the threshold to allow the kick sound to come through while essentially muting the majority of the other drum/cymbal sounds. Also, while setting the attack to the Channel Strip’s fastest “auto” setting, I allow for a long (400ms) release.
Sub Kick
This particular miking trick is one that can be used to bring great low-end presence to the kick drum. By way of explanation, a short stand holding essentially the woofer of a speaker is placed in front of the kick drum and picks up predominantly the low frequencies. When blended with the kick drum mic, the sub-kick generates great power in the lowest part of the frequency.
In order to accentuate the most important elements of the sub kick’s sound, I tend to use a low pass filter approach to my EQ that removes all frequencies above 500hz and drops off even more dramatically below 100hz. This is to make sure that only the essential parts of the sub kick’s sound come through. The sub kick should be felt more than it is heard. In terms of compression, a ratio of approximately 5:1, a relatively slow attack (120ms) and medium fast release (57ms) allow the sub kick’s tone to stay present and full underneath the sound of the kick drum’s regular miked sound. Then, I’ll use a noise gate with a fast attack (20ms) and slower release (200ms) to keep out any other kit sounds that might otherwise bleed into the sub kick sound.
Snare
Along with the kick drum, the snare drum is essential for driving a rhythm track. Poor EQ and compression techniques can leave it sounding thin, dull and generally uninspired. In order to accentuate the best parts of the snare sound with EQ, I’ll boost the low end of the snare by 2-3dB at around 80hz, cut 2-3dB between 350-450hz and then boost again, if necessary, for more high-end brightness, by 1-2dB at 5k. These three EQ points are a great place to start to sculpt an interesting snare sound.
Compression on a snare is a real balancing act where too much will take away the energy of the performance and too little will make it practically impossible to find an appropriate level for the snare in the mix. I use a ratio of 2.5:1 with a very quick attack (2ms) and release (11ms). If you’re finding that you’re losing the snap of the snare, slow your compressor’s attack a little but remember that slowing the attack too much will take the compressor too long to grab onto the sound and will leave the snare much less manageable in the mix.
Adjust the threshold settings until things sound right to your ear. This basically allows you to decide how much overall compression you’ll be applying. Don’t overdo it or the drum will lose its energy but don’t go too lightly or the snare won’t stand up in the mix. Gating the snare is a trial and error process as well. Depending on whether the snare approach in the song is aggressive or soft will have a lot to do with your threshold settings. Like on the kick drum, I use the very fast “auto” attack and a slower release on the gate in an attempt to keep out the ambient sounds of the cymbals, toms and kick.
Hi-Hat
While obviously a cymbal, the hi-hat is often used more as a rhythmic element than a tone color like some of the other cymbals in a drum kit. Making sure it has its own sonic space and speaks clearly without being too loud and distracting is what EQ and compression are about in this instance. For EQ, I’ll again use a shelving approach at around 200hz that will effectively clear out low-end information that is non-essential to the hi-hat sound. If I’m interested in bringing in a bit more high-end shimmer and sizzle, I’ll boost between 1-3dB between 6k and 8k again using my ears to tell me what’s working. In general, I tend to stay away from compression on the hi-hat as it tends to find is own dynamic range without too much additional help.
Low (Floor) Tom
A well-mixed set of toms can make all the difference between drum fills that are exciting and those that go by without catching the listener’s ear. Starting with the low tom, I tend to look for the places in the frequency range that bring out both the boom and the snap (similar to the way I approach the kick). In order to accentuate the low quality of this drum, I’ve found that a dramatic cut (12dB) at around 500hz allows the drum to speak clearly. Also, to add the high-end snap, a semi-aggressive boost of between 4-6dB at around 3k will do the trick. Compression also adds a lot to this equation. A ratio of around 4.5:1, a slower attack of 120ms and medium slow release of around 90ms will help the sound remain full and resonant. For the threshold, I simply adjust until the tom rings properly. Gating is another major factor for toms as the large diaphragm mics placed on these drums tend to pick up a lot of the extraneous sounds from the rest of the kit.
I set the gate with the quickest “auto” attack and a slow 400ms release and then adjust the threshold until I’m hearing only the low tom come through when it’s hit. For the “tweak heads” among us there’s a slightly more accurate and labor-intensive way to do this. By going into the actual sound files in your DAW and deleting all but the tom hits themselves, you can create a perfectly gated tom track.
High (Rack) Tom
Like the low tom, the high tom has it’s own frequencies that should be cut/accentuated to bring out the sweetest parts of the sound. For EQ, I’ll do another big cut of around 10dB at 600hz and I’ll make a similarly big boost of around 7dB at approximately 2k. For compression, I use a slightly more aggressive 6:1 ratio slower attack (100ms) and a quick release (25ms). As with the low tom, I’ll gate the high tom using the identical gate attack (fastest “auto”) and release (400ms). The key to the threshold is to adjust it until only the high tom punches through keeping the channel essentially muted for the rest of the time. A final note on the toms, as all tom sizes, tunings and even drummers are different, you’ll need to play with these settings until you find the sweet spots.
Overheads / Room Mics
Given that we’ve made a real effort to isolate and enhance each of the individual drums in the kit, overhead mics serve the dual purpose of capturing the cymbals and integrating the blended sound of the kit back into the sound of the drums. I pay attention to three specific EQ points in order to give the overhead mics a clean, balanced tone. First I’ll use a high pass filter (shelving EQ) at the very low frequency of 40hz to clean up any unnecessary sub-sonic rumbling. Then I’ll pull around 5dB at between 100 and 200hz to prevent any low-mid buildup. Finally, if necessary, I’ll enhance the overall brightness of the cymbals/kit with a small 1-2dB boost at around 5k. For compression, I’ll set the ratio at about 3:1, the attack at around 110ms and the release at a slightly quicker 70ms. The threshold should be adjusted to make sure that the overhead/room sound blends with the overall kit mix. Finally, adjust the volume of the overhead mics in the mix until you pick up just enough of the room to put some air and depth back into the kit.
Limiting the Sub Mix
A final trick to add punch to the overall drum kit is to send all of the individual tracks to a stereo sub mix and place a limiter like the Waves L1 on that stereo auxiliary track. By adjusting the threshold until the attenuation is between 5-7dB, you’ll find that the kit has a really satisfying overall punch and presence.
Conclusion
While I’ve been painfully specific about EQ, compression and gate settings, it’s important to remember that every mix situation is different. Use all of these settings as a jumping off point and then use your ears to tweak the sounds until you’re happy. Good luck!
Etrade Broker New Airport
February 9, 2012
A supplier is an important element of every business. A supplier could be a provider of good and or services which the business in turn resells or adds value to. The quality of suppliers a business has directly impacts or affects the quality of service delivery. It is important to select your supplier for the right reasons. While you may have once-off suppliers from time to time, it is riskier as there is no definite service level guarantee and long term commitment. Such suppliers are to be avoided as much as possible. In some companies, procurement is only done from a list of vetted registered suppliers who would have met stringent criteria and scrutiny. It is easy to find any kind of supplier. When you put considerations and conditions you can easily sift and select those suppliers who meet the standards and status of your organization. There is a supplier for every size and class of business. Not every supplier that exists is a genuine partner to rely on and build your business on. Below are considerations and tips that will help you get the best suppliers to partner with your business.
1. Supplier Capacity and Reliability - In what way is the organization you are considering as a supplier capable of meeting your needs. How long have they been in operation? What is their production capacity and level of pressure they are already under from their existing customers? Consider the reliability and track record the company may have. You may need to speak to other customers who have already started using the services of this particular supplier to get a second or third opinion. Without traceable references you are left to assume that the supplier is reliable. Also consider the levels of stock that the supplier keeps at any given time. This will indicate to you whether your order will be fulfilled instantly the next time you order. Some suppliers do not even keep stock, they only order from their own suppliers once they get an order in which case delays are experienced which could affect how you offer services to your own clients. It is important to note that the reliability on lack of it on the part of your suppliers has a direct impact on the business’s reliability. You cannot support your customers fully with unreliable suppliers whom you are not sure to find in the same place the next time you visit them. Take time to cut out those who let you down constantly.
2. Corporate value system – The value system of a business tells you what they believe in and their general work ethic. Always study the value systems and choose suppliers who seem to live according to their value in real life. Values become the habits and character definition of the people serving you. However, some suppliers simply hang values on the wall and that is where it all ends. A company would rather have 3 values which they advocate for and live by than have ten flowery values which remain imaginary not real. Are the values in any way telling you anything about the service delivery, the customer focus etc? Find a supplier who matches your values and beliefs. A supplier who does not cut corners in a bit to make a sale. A supplier who would rather lose the order than supply imitations purporting to be supplying originals.
3. Quality of products - Most organizations thrive because they offer quality products. You may have sales people who are very jovial, with a positive attitude, smiling all the time but if the product range you are dealing with leaves a lot to be desired in terms of quality then your service mars the business growth totally. No one will ever want to resell products that are not tried and tested. One thing most customers avoid is having to deal with the comebacks or return as this impacts on profitability and reputation. I have noticed that each time I have provided good and services to a customer and there are some concerns and comebacks, I have had to work overtime to retain that customer than in cases where I have given a product or service of high quality. In such cases customers have gone out and spoken well of my business and in turn became my silent sales people.
4. Credit terms – The payment options that supplier provide help them to retain and serve their customers satisfactorily. Most customers are not keen on partying with cash on the very day they receive the goods or services. Customers require time to process payment and be able to strengthen their cash flows through these legal delays in payment. While credit terms are attractive, some customers tend to abuse such facilities by over extending their credit payments. If you are selecting a supplier, always agree on reasonable credit line such as 7 to 14 days which is not too short or too long. It gives a win-win scenario. Realize that you also may have customers who require the same credit facility. In cases where suppliers refuse to give you such terms, then you also need to tighten your cash-flow position by ensuring that your customers pay as you deliver the goods. I have seen companies collapse at the weight of having to finance other businesses all because they simply wanted orders and debtors. You rather not have the order if you are not getting terms and your customers are putting pressure for terms. You can only give away what you have been given.
5. Proximity and Distance - This is an important consideration. You could have suppliers on other continents outside of your own. Realize that there is a delay in shipment that occurs between the time of placing an order and getting the order into your own stock room. You may need to keep contact with suppliers that also close in case you run out and receive urgent orders. In you manage your imports properly you may be able to get all your material from other continents. In that scenario distance ceases to be an issue. The advantage however of dealing with smaller local suppliers is that you have a backup plan and in the event of returns, it is an easier process to get product back to the supplier without huge transportation costs
6. Competitive Pricing – Businesses desire to be profitable. After all, the reason why businesses exist is to make a solid consistent profit for the benefit of the investor and all stakeholders. One way to increase on profits is to ensure that you do not unnecessarily purchase your inputs from expensive suppliers. Having registered suppliers and also a consistent relationship with existing suppliers allows the customer to leverage on pricing. They can negotiate for bulk purchase discounts. In most companies, even after selecting a pool of suppliers to deal with both locally and abroad, there is a policy for procurement staff to get 3 quotations for the same product from different suppliers. The $5 difference in price does make a difference in your pricing of the same product. The goal is to ensure they get the best pricing possible so as to forward the same benefit to the end user.
7. Warranty Issues – It is one thing to supply a product and it is a totally different ball game to ensure that there is valid warranty on it. Make it clear as you purchase the product that you want warranty card or certificate. You can only give warranty to your clients based on the warranty given to you by the supplier. This is where paying attention to detail is of paramount importance. You must be able to return the product if it fails to deliver what the manufacturer claims to be the proper life and performance capacity. The warranty must not be assumed but be in writing. If you have bought from the local channel, it is easier to process your warranty than in situations where you go to alternative channels or markets. I had a rude awakening once when I established a supplier in United States of America while running a business in Zimbabwe. It took 2 weeks for the huge machine to get to my office. The machine was delivered to the client immediately. After two weeks the huge machine failed and had to come back to my office. Because I had not bought the machine through the established channels, I had to ship the machine back to America. The cost of shipping alone equated to the profit I had received a few weeks earlier. It is not worth it; rather focus on a channel that honors international warranty.
8. After Sales Support - Depending on the nature of product you intend to be procuring from a supplier, you need to establish what happens in the event that they have sold you the items and you now need support and technical assistance. Always assess the capacity to support you after the sale has been done. Likewise you also need to develop or hire skills to ensure they offer the first level of support and maintenance of the equipment you are selling.
9. Up to date Product Range – How up to date is the product range that your supplier is giving you. There are always new products being developed daily if your supplier sticks to the old range, soon enough your company will be left behind. Technology advancements have ensured that new releases of better, faster, more efficient and cost effective products come on the market. The goal is to make more modern products available to the market at competitive pricing. This is made possible as companies invest in research to ensure they make the same products if not better at a lower cost all the time. Sometimes it is good to partner with a supplier who has a broader range of choices than where one range is being marketed. The broader the range the more the choice you have available to yourself to choose from.
10. Lower Lead times – systems efficiency - When choosing suppliers you have to consider how much longer you normally have to wait for your order or for queries to be responded to. Some companies grow to levels where they can no longer give individual promises to customers and stick by them. You are left unsure about whether upon placement of an order you will get it instantly, after 3 days or 3 weeks. Your own customers usually dictate the lead times they need from you. In the event that you are experiencing delays in your service, endeavor to communicate with the customer as much as possible to ensure that lead time issues do not affect their loyalty to your services. Partner with suppliers who have efficient systems. I usually get annoyed when I have to wait for 20 minutes as the red tape in a company is laid out. All I want in most cases is to pay, get a product with my receipt or invoice. If the supplier’s internal processes are that you
Ironing Boards
February 5, 2012
I will make the assumption that you have a surround sound or home theater receiver and start from there. There are 3 main home theater speaker setups which you will see termed 5.1, 6.1, and 7.1 channel surround. You will also see mentioned the terms Dolby Digital, DTS, and Dolby Pro Logic. Let’s dispense with the latter first: if your receiver is only Pro Logic (only older receivers at this point) you do not need to worry about 6.1 or 7.1 surround. There are some other formats such as Dolby Digital EX, Dolby Pro-logic IIx, Dolby TrueHD, DTS neo:6.1, DTS-ES, True-Surround XT, and undoubtedly more.
The two factors to consider are:
1. how many channels does your system permit, and
2. Do you want to buy that many speakers?
All the receivers that support more than 5.1 channels will also work fine with a 5.1 channel setup. Obviously, 7.1 will provide better surround sound than 5.1, but at the expense of two extra speakers. If you have a limited budget you will have to decide whether to buy 5.1 higher quality speakers, or go for cheaper speakers to allow for 7.1 channels. By the way, the .1 channel is the home theater sub-woofer. The sub-woofer is, in my opinion, really needed for home theater. A system will work without it, but I don’t recommend going without for home theater. The center channel is also very important for home theater, serving to anchor the sound to the video screen. If you go to our site by the link at the bottom of this article you can see images for the descriptions following. These are the recommended placements according to Dolby Labs.
5.1 surround system:
A). Center speaker centered on video source
B). Sub-woofer(s) in arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source
C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs
D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position
6.1 surround system:
A). Center speaker centered on video source
B). Sub-woofer(s) in arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source
C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs
D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position
E). Rear center 180 degrees (directly behind) the sitting position
7.1 surround system:
A). Center speaker centered on video source
B). Sub-woofer(s) in arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source
C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs
D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position
E). L & R rear equidistant and on a 135-150 degree angle from the listening position.
Sub-woofer Setup
Your sub-woofer may have a switch for Dolby Digital / Pro Logic. If you have a Dolby Digital capable receiver set it to that even if you are using Pro Logic. The same goes if you have multiple inputs on your sub. If your input is labeled LFE it is the equivalent of a Dolby Digital input. You want to use the input to the RCA style plug (or plugs) if you are using the sub-woofer in a surround system.
If you have speaker level binding post inputs, these are almost always for using the sub-woofer in a non surround sound speaker setup. Preset the sub-woofer level control to about halfway before running the white noise test tone to calibrate your receiver speaker levels. You absolutely must run the test and balance your speaker levels to have the surround system perform properly.
Don’t worry about the crossover frequency control on the sub for Dolby Digital or better systems. For Pro Logic set it to the point where bass in your main speakers drops off, which will require looking at the documentation for your speakers.
If you are not using your sub in a surround system, you may, with advantage, use the speaker level inputs on the back of your sub. The advantage to this is if you have small speakers. The receiver left and right channels are connected directly to the sub-woofer, and the left and right speakers connect to the speaker out connectors on the sub-woofer. What this does is allow the sub to produce the low bass that the main speakers can not, which of course the other types of connections would do also. The advantage here is the fact that with the sub-woofer connected this way, it filters the bass out of the signal, so your main speakers never try to produce the bass that they can’t handle. This results in clearer, cleaner sound and more volume capability from your main speakers.
Sub-woofer placement is generally as below for other speakers. It is true that bass is omnidirectional and so you should be able to place a sub-woofer anywhere, but as usual this depends on your situation. I play music loud, and can detect where the sub-woofer is located by the feel of the vibrations. I find it very distracting to have the bass seem to come from the front of the room, but the vibrations of the bass coming from another direction. I therefore always prefer a sub-woofer to the front of the room.
How to get the most out of your speakers (How to improve your sound quality for no extra money )
The first consideration with a new speaker system is placement, and the second is wiring, both of which deserve consideration. We will cover wiring first with some generalities that apply to all kinds of speakers. The placement part will cover in home speakers only.
Wiring your speakers
First and foremost, wire selection can be very important. If your speakers are to be installed in-wall, you will need speaker cable rated cl3 or equivalent. If outdoor speakers, you should try to use what is termed direct burial cable or equivalent. Next, if you care about the sound quality at all, 22 gauge cable is not recommended. It can be used for very short runs, and is smaller for hiding, but due to resistance you will sacrifice some sound quality. I would recommend 16 gauge wire for most runs, unless you really want to get the best out of your speakers, in which case use 12 gauge or larger. For a long run I would recommend larger than 16 gauge. (We have a cable article and distance chart on our site at the link at the bottom.) I personally use a good audio quality 12 gauge cable myself, but you will pay more for cable this large. The advantages are better dynamics, and the amplifier can control your speakers better due to low resistance wire. As always, let the price point of your speakers determine the cable. Don’t put expensive cables on cheap speakers, and vice versa. BTW, don’t try to use romex (house wiring) instead of decent quality audio cable. Really, just say no. For so many reasons.
One common question is if fancy cable makes any difference. I must state here that many persons consider the very subject to be so much snake-oil. I personally believe that I can hear some differences, depending on the quality of the associated system. In other words, any hearable differences in cable will be more noticeable in a system with more resolution. Also consider that many listeners not selling cable claim to hear a difference. Consider any double blind tests carefully. I usually can pick holes in the logic behind most of these tests, and point out factors not considered. One perfect example was an amplifier test (by a major audio magazine) that level matched the amps, did a double blind test, and asserted the amps sounded identical, so they recommended that everyone buy the cheaper amp.
Here’s the rub: Under their exact conditions, which are not normal listening conditions, the amps sounded the same. Consider this unmentioned idea: The cheaper amp had less power output than the other, and under normal listening conditions, say with loud rock music, and inefficient or difficult to drive speakers would have pooped out before reaching satisfying listening levels, not to mention clipping and distorting from over-driving the amp. One problem with the double blind tests is, in order to be accurate, they have to control every factor in the universe that could affect the results, even unknown factors. The other is, in order to compare everything on an even playing field, they purposely diminish or nullify the differences, then triumphantly proclaim they are all the same. The perfect example from above is level matching at a volume level that does not stress the more easily stressed amp.
Polarity or Phasing of your speakers is very important. This means finding the wire with a stripe or writing on one side, and connecting that wire to either the + (red) or -(black) on the amplifier and the speaker. It does not matter whether the stripe on the wire connects to plus or minus, as long as it is the same at both ends, and on all speakers. I always connect the plus to the stripe, just to be consistent. If you get this wrong you will lose almost all your bass response, and voices will float around instead of being centered when they should be.
Home Speaker Placement
Ideal placement for best sound is going to vary with the type of speakers you have, but we can supply some good generalities. Obviously, for a surround system, you have some built in limitations. The center channel needs to go above or below center of your television, (or perhaps centered behind a projection screen) and the left and right front need to go to the left and right front. So on for the rest of the speakers. It should be added at this point that for surround sound placement the ideal is all 3 front speakers an equal distance from the listener. This actually places the front speakers on an arc. It is generally good to put rear surrounds a little higher than ear level so that all listeners get a better chance to hear all the speakers. Leaving aside the obvious details of surround sound, here is how to improve the sound of your system for free.
First, don’t put anything in front of your speakers, and if they are placed in a cabinet make sure that the front of the speaker is even with the front of the cabinet. Also, keep in mind that some speakers such as the rear ported variety perform very poorly in cabinets. Make sure speaker ports, which may be in the front, rear, side or elsewhere, are not blocked. This goes for sub-woofers also. Stability is also important, your speakers need to remain stable at high volume levels. If they move with loud drum beats, your system will be robbed of punch and impact. If you use speaker stands make sure they are stable enough for the size of speakers you have. One quick tip is to use some blu-tack or mortite putty between the speaker and stand to improve the coupling and add stability. Spikes on the bottoms of the stands work well for carpeted rooms.
Next, check out the sound of your speakers. Many speakers sound better when aimed directly at the listener, and located at ear height. This is not always the case, however. If the treble or voices sound a little too sharp, then perhaps the speakers will sound better aimed straight out instead of at the listener. Listen to the bass. Is it boomy, or lacking? If your speakers sound a little boomy, like they are in a barrel, bass response can probably be improved by moving your speakers farther from a wall or corner. If your speakers are too light in bass, they may sound better closer to a wall. Remember not to block any bass ports. If the speaker is rear ported it needs a little space out from the wall and clearance on the sides of the speaker to perform properly. One little tweak you might try: some speakers sound better with the speaker grills off. Try removing them and see if they sound better. In many cases there will be no noticeable difference, but it costs nothing to try.
Other issues: If your speakers are correctly phased as described above but voices are not sharply locked in location you may have your speakers too far apart. This generally applies to stereo, not surround sound. If not used on a surround system, the sub-woofer crossover point should be adjusted to coincide with the drop off in bass from your main speakers. You may find this listed in your documentation, usually on the order of the -3db point. If after all this your speakers don’t seem to perform like they should, you should consider whether the amplifier attached to them is up to the task of driving them. There are more issues here than power, especially impedance. An amplifier that has high wattage may drive 8 ohm speakers well, and do very poorly on 4 ohm speakers if the amplifier is not designed for “high current” or rated into 4 ohm speakers. In addition, many amplifier (or receiver, home theater amplifier, etc) manufacturers use various methods to exaggerate the wattage ratings on their amplifiers. The true rating to look for is called the RMS rating, and should be rated into a specific impedance (4 ohm, 8 ohm) etc and at a specific distortion rating.
Regulators Headsets BMX
February 2, 2012
To everyone who once wonder what DVDRip, DVDSCR, CAM, TS, TC, and R5 mean. Those are Video Quality names. When you are going to download a movie is important to know what does mean all this words in the name of the archive, because you dont want to spend time downloading a movie and find out the quality of the movie is not as expected.
DVDRip: Is a copy of a original DVD. The quality is excellent (DVD Quality). DVDRip Quality is ready to download when Original DVD is in the market. DVDrips are released in SVCD and DivX/XviD.
Worth to Download? YES
DVDScr: Or DVD Screener, usually is a copy of a PROMO Dvd. The DVDScr is out before the original DVD is in the market. Video usually comes with water marks in the video, clock counters and legends. Sometimes in some parts of the Movie video turns in black and white.
Quality is good.
Worth to Download? YES
R5: Refers to a specific format of DVD released in DVD Region 5, the former Soviet Union, and bootlegged copies of these releases that are distributed on the Internet. In an effort to compete with movie piracy, the movie industry chose to create a new format for DVD releases that could be produced more quickly and less expensively than traditional DVD releases. Quality is good because video is ripped directly from a DVD.
Worth to Download? YES
CAM: A cam is a theater rip usually done with a digital video camera. A mini tripod is sometimes used, but a lot of the time this wont be possible, so the camera make shake. Also seating placement isn’t always idle, and it might be filmed from an angle. Quality is awful.
Worth to Download? NO
TS: Or Telesync, is the same spec as a CAM except it uses an external audio source. A direct audio source does not ensure a good quality audio source, as a lot of background noise can interfere. Quality is awful.
Worth to Download? NO
TC: A telecine machine copies the film digitally from the reels. Sound and picture should be very good, but due to the equipment involved and cost telecines are fairly uncommon. Quality is regular.
Worth to Download? NO
Wrinkle Cream Chocolate Coins ODM Daze
January 30, 2012
Next to doing the right thing, the most important thing is to let people know you are doing the right thing. – John D. Rockefeller
With over 15 years of experience as a financial adviser, I know how difficult it can be to market and expand your business. This article provides tips on marketing your Socially Responsible Investing (SRI) practice through effective seminar marketing. The primary focus is on getting prospects into the room. Later articles in this series will help you to develop the content and other logistics for an effective seminar.
Seminar Marketing sets the stage for professional success and can serve as your first exposure to the clientele you are trying to attract. To be most effective in expanding your business, I recommend conducting your own seminar. If you are not comfortable doing all the speaking yourself consider partnering with a professional in a related industry or a wholesaler who is comfortable in front of an audience who can do it with you. The goal of a seminar is to schedule an appointment with as many qualified prospects as possible while telling the public you practice SRI.
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO FILL THE ROOM?
Traditional ways of marketing a seminar can work well to get your name out, whether you are new to a community or a long-time member.
Radio advertisement: Local AM radio stations that focus on the financial market are the best approach for this type of media. Consider sponsoring an episode of a professional’s show in a related industry, or have your own commercial running between shows that are related to your field. I had my own radio show for over two years and this created significant credibility with my listeners. If your compliance department allows it, ask to be a guest speaker for a show or have your own.
Inserts in local newspaper: This can be done as a classified ad, or a brightly colored insert, similar to a flyer. Be specific about the audience you want to attract with your language. Relate to your target market so that when people see your ad they think, “That’s me!” Start the ad with a question so your prospect answers your question in their mind. Examples could include: “Are you retired or planning to retire soon?” “Are you ready to invest in alignment with your values?” “Do you want to make money AND make a difference?”
Be active in your community: Perhaps the best was to fill a seminar is to draw on your networking activities in the community. Be strategic about the clubs and organizations you join, with an eye toward meeting people that can be prospects, clients and referrals. Social events, recreational activities, and spiritual events can all be places where you will meet potential clients. Be ready with your business card or a flyer for your next seminar. Be sure to get as much contact information as possible and follow up shortly after meeting your new contact! This is a crucial step often skipped leading to a missed network opportunity.
Personal invitations: Don’t be afraid to invite people you know, especially the first time you do a seminar. Having familiar faces in the room can help you gain confidence in your ability to give a professional seminar. While your personal contacts may not be interested in your products, they now understand more of what you do and can refer you to friends and colleagues more easily.
Referrals: Some advisors are afraid to ask for referrals. Many others are great at asking but don’t have a system for converting them into an actual client. Clients tend to know people who share their values, so this is the best way to get qualified and hopefully enjoyable prospects to attend your seminar. Make this a social as well as educational event for your clients by inviting them to your seminar and recommending they bring some of their friends and colleagues.
* Be sure to ask the client for the referral’s name, address and phone number ahead of time so that you can send an invitation and also make a personal phone call. (Stay tuned for the upcoming system developed by Resources for Advisers that will teach in detail how to receive referrals and convert them easily to clients.)
Taking advantage of local web resources: Many communities have local websites for getting information out to members of the web community. This can be a quick way to get your name out and invite people to a seminar. I am on several social networks that are really helpful in disseminating my marketing materials.
TRY TEACHING!
Once you’ve had some experience presenting your seminar, try these methods to continue growing your prospects both locally and nationally:
Tele-classes: Contact related business to do tele-classes. These can be done with CPA firms, mortgage brokerage firms, and other related businesses. Doing a joint seminar with Mortgage Brokers, Estate Planning Attorneys and Accountants is a great win-win for both of you when you each invite your client list. Use a free service such as freeconferencing.com and send the phone number via email to invitees and leads. Make sure the tele-class is interactive and engage the audience. Leave plenty of time for questions. Many people like this concept because they can participate without having to leave their home or office and it leaves no carbon footprint!
Teaching classes: Teaching a course on SRI at a local community college, university, learning annex, or investment club can help you attract clients to your business. Contact your local educational resources to see about opportunities to teach in their adult education night/weekend courses. This can be a single class or can be a series depending on the extent of your content and the structure of the educational programs for your area.
Speaking for other peoples’ audiences: My favorite way to get my name out to the public is to be invited to speak for audiences that already have a scheduled event. You can ask to be an “expert” guest speaker at another professional’s seminar in a related industry. As an invited speaker at Rotary clubs, investment clubs, and other active-adult communities, you will gain immediate credibility with the audience.
“On call” Financial Planner: Be the “on call” financial planner for local businesses and offer your consulting services free of charge. Contact the Human Resources department of a local company and offer to conduct free seminars for their employees at their business location. Topics can include utilizing SRI within their 401K plans, 529 plans, IRAs and other investment accounts. Set up 15-20 minute appointment slots after the seminar to meet with each person to reallocate their retirement plan and set an appointment for a future date reviewing their whole portfolio, with their spouse present if possible.
Specialized markets–Mailers: The best way to target individuals based on your niche market is through mailers. Here are some examples of ways to attract the right people for your niche. If you specialize in IRA distributions focus on prospects over 59 and a half and mention IRA Distribution strategies in your mailer. Or, if you enjoy educating women on issues specific to women consider a list of women only and perhaps widows to narrow the niche even more. One way to include higher net worth recipients is to ask for the category of homeowners along with your other specifications. Narrowing by homeowner can eliminate some prospects that could be in your niche so consider what is important to you.
MAKING THE MOST OUT OF MAILERS!
Choosing the right type of mailers and smoothly and easily distributing them to the right prospects takes some advanced planning.
Distributing Mailers: Regardless of the mailer you chose, you will need a mail house to get them sent out. Build a relationship with a local mail house since repeat business usually leads to discounts. Local businesses can offer a full range of services including: providing mailing lists, creating a customized mailer, addressing, offering bulk postage and delivery to the post office. For smaller, more intimate seminars consider using real stamps instead of bulk postage and address the envelopes in ink. With any form of mailer always ask for discounts especially when placing large or repeat orders.
Compiling Mailing Lists: You may have a targeted mailing list from the contacts you have in your community. Some title companies will give them to you for free as an incentive to develop a networking relationship with the title officer. Otherwise, you may need to purchase a mailing list. The size and type of mailing list you choose directly affects your response rate and the qualified attendees you receive. Be sure to find a service that provides customizable mailing lists, including zip code selection, age targets, net worth targets, home ownership, etc. You can customize your mailing list based on a variety of demographic factors and target affluent zip codes in the surrounding area of your office location. A typical response rate is.5% – 2% if sent to completely cold prospects so be sure to send out enough mailers. Repetition lets the audience know that you are here to stay and increases these numbers. Of course, client referrals are substantially better prospects.
Invitations: Wedding-style invitations with an RSVP card are a professional, albeit more expensive, way to market. This is a very common approach among financial, real estate, mortgage and other professionals offering a seminar. You may want to take this concept and update it with your own touch to set yourself apart from the others. These do tend to get a higher response rate but they cost more too. I sprinkle these type of mailers occasionally for variety.
Postcards: Low-cost postcards can be designed and ordered online and shipped directly to your mailing list or sent to a local mail house. The postcards can be very stylish and professional but limit how much content you can include. These are great for reminders to your clients and hot prospects, such as referrals. Remember, your postcard does not have to be the smaller size. I often do half page postcards on nice cardstock. This is probably my favorite type of mailer because it is “naked mail”. Your prospect doesn’t have to open an envelope to see it.
Flyers: These can be folded and mailed without needing an envelope. This is a cost-effective approach, and allows a full page to market your seminar. Be sure to use a bright, pleasing color so it stands out in the mail and have extras for placement at other businesses. Choose professionals in a related industry (i.e. Estate Attorneys) and ask them to place these flyers in their lobbies or on their desk. It is especially important that tax preparers have plenty of flyers on their desk during tax time since clients often ask questions the tax preparer cannot legally answer.
Val-Paks, Penny Savers and other coupon mailers: This is usually cost-effective and can be done routinely if you plan to host seminars on a regular basis, but is less efficient at targeting a specialized market. We have a company that distributes high-end packets that are much classier than a Val-Pak and I recommend researching this option in your local area before choosing this option.
Bonus placement of any mailer: Whether you are marketing a seminar or simply getting your name out there for public recognition, placing flyers, postcards, business cards, etc… in the offices of related business can give you immediate credibility. Be sure to develop relationships with estate planning attorneys, CPA firms, real estate brokerages, and other professional service businesses in your area.
Article submitted by Jobie Summer and Resources for Advisors.
Cruise Packages Database Warehousing
January 1, 2012
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